Hidden in the southwest corner of the state, dipped in the Animas River Valley between the majestic San Juan Mountain Range and the semi-arid mesa lands, Durango is a mix of Old and New West culture. Primarily a summer destination due to its world-class mountain biking, Gold-Medal rivers, proximity to Mesa Verde's ancient cliff dwellings and southern terminus of one of the West's top tourist trains, Durango is actually cheaper and less crowded in the winter. Unlike many of Colorado's destination ski resorts, lodging availability typically goes up and prices go down in winter. That means when snow blankets this 1880s frontier town, a great vacation awaits, because with an eclectic downtown and ski resort nearby, there's plenty to do in the winter whether or not you ski. Here's a sample itinerary for a short getaway:
Day One: Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad
Narrow-gauge tracks were laid from Durango to the mining districts of the north within a year of the town's establishment, and vintage steam engines still run from Durango through steep-walled canyons to the old mining town of Silverton. In winter, the Cascade Canyon Winter Train makes a shorter trip through some of the most spectacular parts of the route.
Reserve your seats online at www.durangotrain.com or by phone (required if you book less than a week in advance) at (888) 872-4607, or sign up for a trip at the railroad depot (479 Main Ave.), a virtual museum where you can also browse through locomotive photos, memorabilia and railroad art.
When you return to town, consider dinner at one of the following Durango classics:
Steamworks Brewing Company: Try the award-winning beers and Cajun Boil, a messy but deliciously spicy seafood mix that's dumped right on the table.
801 E. 2nd Avenue, (970) 259-9200.
Scoot 'n Blues: Jazz up your night with live blues (Thursday–Sunday evenings) and ribs, burgers and other pub fare in a fun and funky atmosphere.
900 Main Avenue, (970) 259-1400.
Tequila's Mexican Restaurant: Good, filling south-of-the-border fare served in huge portions at this locals' favorite.
948 Main Avenue, (970) 259-7655.
Day Two: Downtown Durango
Downtown Durango offers an interesting mix of shops, galleries and restaurants—some in cowboy style, some totally modern. From a fly-fishing specialist called
Durangler's and
O'Farrell Handcrafted Hats, to a
Polo Ralph Lauren outlet store and
Toh-Atin Gallery, showing noteworthy Southwestern art, the retail diversity keeps things interesting.
To learn more about the cultural side of Durango, pick up a gallery guide at the visitors center, less than a mile south of town on US 550. The
Animas Museum presents exhibits on La Plata County and regional history, as well as Native American cultures.
The Durango Arts Center mounts new exhibits monthly and features an array of media, artists and live performances. Upstairs, the
Children's Museum specializes in hands-on exhibits for kids age 2 to 11.
The Animas Museum (3065 West 2nd Avenue)
Winter hours are 10 am–4 pm, Tuesday–Saturday
Admission: Adults, $3; children 7–12, $1; Children 6 and under free
Winter Hours: (November–April) Tuesday–Saturday, 10 am–4 pm
www.animasmuseum.org
(970) 259-2402
Durango Arts Center (802 E. 2nd Avenue)
Gallery hours: Tuesday–Saturday, 10 am–5 pm
Admission: by voluntary donation
www.durangoarts.org
(970) 259-2606
Children's Museum (upstairs at the DAC)
Museum hours: Wednesday–Saturday, 9 am–4 pm; Sunday, 10 am–2 pm
Admission: Children 4-11, $4; Accompanying adults, $5.50; children 3 and under, free.
For a casual lunch, stop into Carver Brewing Co., a Durango institution for great baked goods, steaming soups, filling burgers and sandwiches, microbrews and an easygoing atmosphere. (1022 Main Avenue, 970-259-2545)
Shop and browse some more, then later, wander through the 1887 Historic Strater Hotel. This haute-Victorian hotel houses one of the world's largest collections of walnut furniture, an old-fashioned saloon and a good steakhouse-plus called the Mahogany Grill. (699 Main Avenue, 970-247-4431)
Day Three: Durango Mountain Resort
Twenty-five miles upstream from Durango is Durango Mountain Resort, formerly known as Purgatory. Family-friendly and easy on the budget, this mid-size mountain offers 1,200 skiable acres, 11 lifts, 85 trails and two terrain parks. It is Colorado's southernmost ski resort and is known for mild, sunny ski days and frequent night-time snowstorms. In addition to skiing and snowboarding, you can try other snowsports like cross-country ski excursions, ski biking, snow tubing, guided snowshoe tours and backcountry snowcat trips. The activities desk in Purgatory Village base can provide information or book these adventures, or call guest services at (970) 247-9000, ext. 147, or visitwww.durangomountainresort.com.
For an evening outdoor adventure, Buck's Livery offers dinner sleigh rides to a cozy mountain cabin. (970-247-9000, ext.110, or www.buckslivery.com).
On the way to or from the mountain, just seven miles from town, pause for a dip in Trimble Hot Springs, where you'll find swimming and therapy pools, plus a massage area. Another interesting stop 10 miles north of town is Honeyville, a factory store with glass beehives and viewing of the bottling plant. Please note that the bees are dormant in winter and bottling activities are not undertaken every day. However, tasty free samples are always available.
For more information on any of these activities in Durango, visit www.durango.org or call (800) 525-8855.