As you begin the West Elk Loop, you might ask yourself why you would ever want to depart the Roaring Fork Valley. To the left, Mount Sopris dominates the skyline like few other mountains in America—a hulking peak that embodies everything iconic about Colorado. Sliding beneath the bridge as you enter Carbondale is the Roaring Fork, a river with cottonwood banks, polished stones and fat rainbow trout. And then there’s the town of Carbondale—youthful, quaint and in the middle of a dining and shopping renaissance.
As much as you'd like to stay here, press onward—because ahead of you lie 200 miles of road that pass through ruddy-colored canyons, glorious aspen groves, an orchard-filled valley and a handful of towns you’ll only find in the West. And don't worry—since this is a loop trip, you’ll be back in the Roaring Fork Valley by nightfall (that is, if you don’t decide to linger in Gunnison or Crested Butte).
South of Carbondale, Colorado Highway 133 zips through open pastureland before seeking out a cleft in the valley and forging into the Crystal River Canyon. This is the ideal spot to drive with your windows down, as you mirror the Crystal River’s course with the highway’s curves.
Make a stop at Redstone, a romantic little town centered on a picturesque main street that is lined with shops and galleries. Founded by industrial tycoon John Osgood in the early 1900s, Redstone was home to laborers who worked in the Colorado Fuel & Iron Company’s coal mines west of town. Osgood was determined to make Redstone a desirable place to work and live, so he commissioned numerous chalet-style homes for the families of miners, as well as the luxurious Redstone Inn, which served as a bunkhouse for laborers living the single life. Osgood saved the best for himself: On the outskirts of town, he built the Cleveholm Manor, a 42-room Tudor-style mansion.
Beyond Redstone, the valley bends dramatically to the east, and Highway 133 scales the hillside toward McClure Pass. But before you cross over to the other side, take a journey up the dirt road to the sleepy hamlet of Marble. Some of the world’s finest marble has been mined from this area, including pieces used in the Lincoln Memorial and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Stop by the Marble Historical Society Museum in the summer months for a fascinating look at this boomtown’s past. Trails ideal for hiking, snowshoeing and cross-country skiing can be found all around town.
Back on the highway, your engine will shift into low gear to make it up the long and steady climb to McClure Pass. Splendid views of the Crystal River Valley appear as you gain in elevation. The dynamic mountains that dominate the eastern side of the valley are located inside the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness Area, one of the original wilderness areas in the state, and a cherished spot for hikers and mountain climbers.
On the southwest side of the pass, the terrain is less severe but just as captivating as large stands of aspen engulf the surrounding valleys and peaks. Just beyond the tranquil Paonia Reservoir, you’ll pass an intersection with Gunnison County Road 12—this is where you'll return to the highway to complete the loop later on. Beyond this junction you’ll pass through
Somerset, a town with a rich history tied to coal mining.
The valley widens after this point and includes the warm and hospitable communities of
Paonia and
Hotchkiss. This is one of Colorado’s most fertile areas, with a long-standing tradition of fruit farming. A simple purchase of peaches, apples, a bag of cherries or even a bottle of locally made wine goes a long way to preserving this region’s proud agrarian heritage. Colorado wines—in particular, clarets from this region—are gaining favor nationally.
In Hotchkiss, keep your eyes open for Highway 92, which will take you on the next leg of your journey. For the next hour you are not likely to see many cars. Despite easy access to the lesser-known North Rim section of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, this stretch of highway sees little in the way of traffic—which is too bad for everyone else, because the scenery is glorious. Distant views of Needle Rock (near the town of
Crawford) and the upper reaches of the spectacular Black Canyon of the Gunnison have a tendency to stop visitors in their tracks. Frequent pullouts enable you to take a break, lie on your back in an emerald grove of aspens, and stare at the bright blue sky without noisy man-made distractions.
Eventually you’ll intersect with US Highway 50 at Blue Mesa Reservoir. This is not only Colorado’s largest body of water, but the largest kokanee salmon fishery in the United States. Each autumn, salmon swim up the Gunnison River to spawn in gravel beds. Along the northern shore of the lake are a series of sharp volcanic needles known as the Dillon Pinnacles. A moderate hike will take you to the base of this geologic anomaly—look for the trailhead on the left side of the road after crossing the reservoir’s bridge.
Beyond Blue Mesa Reservoir, the valley widens considerably and the highway delivers you to
Gunnison, a quaint college-and-cowboy town with fun restaurants and a variety of accommodations. Gunnison thrived on the mining and cattle industries in the late 1800s, and as a result, the town became a major supply center for the region. The uncharacteristically wide streets allude to the town planners’ initial hope that Gunnison would one day be Colorado’s capital. Those ambitions would never be fulfilled, but Gunnison would weather mining busts and lean times because of its ideal location along the railroad.
In the heart of Gunnison you’ll find the intersection of US Highway 50 and Main Street. Head north on Main Street to continue to West Elk Loop; the road will eventually leave town and become Colorado Highway 135. For 27 miles, the road passes serene ranchland on its way into the historic heart of
Crested Butte. Divided into two villages, Crested Butte’s old town is decorated in Victorian charm. Stop by the Crested Butte Mountain Heritage Museum and learn about the town’s colorful characters and large Croatian population that have called the old mining town their home.
The final leg of this wondrous tour passes over some of Colorado’s most spectacular scenery. Head west out of Crested Butte on County Road 12 toward Kebler Pass. In summer, the road passes numerous meadows that are saturated with wildflowers; in fall, the countless aspen groves blaze with various hues of gold. With views of the West Elk Mountains, the Ruby Range and the Raggeds, the route over Kebler Pass is a stunning conclusion to this scenic and historic byway. Relive the beauty of McClure Pass and the Crystal River valley by linking up with Highway 133 below Paonia Reservoir and turning right. One hour later, you’ll be back where you started in
Carbondale.
Distance: 205 miles
Allow 8 to 10 hours
Scenic & Historic Byways Overview
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