Coloradans talk a lot about the state’s deep commitment to community. One place that demonstrates this well is Colorado’s oldest town, San Luis. Here, families measure their connection to the area not in years, but generations. Situated in a broad valley, riddled with farms and surrounded by peaks, San Luis has always been at a crossroads of cultures. As a result, it is rich with timeless customs and historic sites. One proud resident is Crestina Martinez, who works for Costilla County and has pitched in on efforts to preserve the county’s adobe courthouse.
What makes San Luis such a historically rich place?
Well as you know, San Luis is the oldest town in Colorado. We were established 50 years prior to our incorporation in 1851. So we have been established here for almost 200 years. There is an extremely rich culture that has been passed on for generations—six, seven generations in some cases. Our language, our religion and our way of life have sustained the trials of time. We have beautiful views, surrounded by mountains, a strong agricultural tradition—it’s a great place to be.
Why was the town founded at that location?
We were actually part of a Mexican land grant, the area was. And individuals were encouraged to settle the area. Here where San Luis is, there is a river called the Culebra River, and there is the Vega Commons, which is a meadowland. There was also close access to mountain terrain where residents could gather timber, they could hunt, they could recreate. So it was just an ideal location for a community to be established.
Is the commons still used for its original purpose—public grazing of cattle?
It is, actually. There are only two commons in the United States: Boston Commons and the Vega Commons here in San Luis. But ours is the only commonlands that retains its original usage, which is communal grazing. Between May and October you can see local residents out there checking on the cattle they have out there on the Vega. And it is open to all individuals, including visitors or locals who choose to enjoy the property.
How big is it?
It’s approximately 500 acres. Actually, Costilla County just acquired 1,200 acres of open space so that property will also be available to residents and be managed by the Vega Board. Essentially, there is now close to 2,000 acres.
And this is right in town?
It’s south of town, but it is right adjacent to the city limits. We are in the process of rehabilitating one of the bridges, the historic bridge that leads into the Vega.
How long has your family been in San Luis?
Generations! I’m probably about the seventh generation. My father’s family has been here for many, many years—one of the original settlers in the area. They traveled up from Northern New Mexico, and found their way here to the San Luis area. My family still owns the original home where the family started. My grandfather was one of the first business owners in the area. On the maternal side I’m the fourth generation.
Tell us about growing up in San Luis.
It is a unique and wonderful experience. I can’t even begin to explain how, now that I’ve grown, I appreciate the opportunities I had, the communal support, the large family gatherings. I will always remember going into my grandmother’s house and her always having fresh-made tortillas, baked goods and a kitchen full of cousins. I grew up on a ranch that my father owned, so I got to play outside with cows and sheep, and I remember feeding newborn lambs out of the bottle in our kitchen. And I remember playing in the acequias, which are ditches. You know friends would come over and we would go tubing down the acequias. We have a strong connection to the land, and a strong religious connection and a strong family and communal connection.
And did you have a horse growing up?
I did actually. I had a palomino quarter horse named Buttercup. Those are some of the first pictures that we have of me—out there with my dad and the cattle and me on the horse with him and I couldn’t wait until I was old enough to have a horse. And Santa Claus was gracious enough to give a horse to me one year at Christmas.
What should a traveler to San Luis make time to visit?
When you arrive in San Luis, you are arriving into a historic district. The majority of our main street—buildings, homes—they are historic. Definitely visit the Catholic Church and the convent. They are great places to see. The church is always open, the doors are never locked and visitors are welcome any time. The decorations within the church usually are a reflection of the season. For example, now there are aspen trees decorating the altar and hanging from the ceiling. It changes up throughout the year—during the summer, there are fresh flowers on the altar. And the convent is currently used as a bed and breakfast. Visitors are more than welcome to stay there. They can contact the Catholic Church and make reservations. There is also the San Luis Museum and Cultural Center in the heart of town. We have some excellent displays, a representation of the town as it originally was when it was incorporated back in 1851. We also have the Stations of the Cross Shrine—it is not a historical site, but it gives you a bird’s eye view of San Luis and the historic district itself. And there is a chapel up there and an educational center that has art on display. There is also the Vega where you can walk the dog and see the agricultural side of San Luis. And there is the San Luis People’s Ditch that is the first and oldest water right in the state of Colorado. We also have the oldest locally owned and continuously owned business in Colorado, which is R&R Market on Main Street.
Describe the county courthouse for us, and its recent renovations.
It is the oldest and only adobe courthouse in Colorado, but there were some additions made to it years ago that affected its historic quality. Those layers of 1970 construction had to be removed to showcase the historic value of the building. There was one wall that had to be reconstructed. The adobe for that was made and prepared by local individuals whose families have traditionally made adobe and been in construction for many generations.
Tell us about the San Luis Valley as a whole and why it is so significant to Colorado?
Well, it’s a gorgeous place. The entire valley has a rich historical, agricultural and religious heritage. There are different types of ethnic groups throughout the valley. Of course, the Hispanic population but also the Native America, Japanese, Dutch and Mormon populations and they have all contributed to the culture and historic value of the area. And because it is a valley that is geographically isolated from the rest of Colorado and New Mexico, they were able to maintain their heritage. I mean the only opening into the valley is to the south and we’re surrounded entirely by really big mountains, so the isolation actually helped to preserve the richness of all these cultures.
Explain to us how the Sangre de Cristo Mountains got their name.
It actually has to do with the color of the mountains at sunset—the pinks and reds. Sangre de Cristo translates into English as “the blood of Christ.” All of the communities here have a strong, Catholic religious community, and so it was only natural for them to make the relation between the colors of the mountains and something they held so dear to themselves, which is their religion. The mountains do turn beautiful hues of pink and red at sunset.
So many of the names in the San Luis Valley seem to have a cultural significance to them.
Yes. Exactly. You know, if you look around at the names of the towns in the San Luis Valley—San Luis, San Acacio, San Pablo, San Francisco, San Isidro—they are all named after saints.
San Luis is situated on Los Caminos Antiguos, a Scenic and Historic Byway. What other culturally and historically significant communities are worth a visit on the route?
The entire byway is absolutely amazing—it’s a beautiful drive. Within our county, San Luis, Fort Garland and Blanca are all along the byway. The Fort Garland Museum is definitely a must, in Fort Garland. There is the Cumbres & Toltec Railroad out in Antonito. It’s a gorgeous, gorgeous train ride, especially in the summer and fall months. There’s Pikes Stockade out near Manassa, Our Lady of Guadalupe Church in Conejos, which is the oldest parish in Colorado —there is a distinction. It is rightfully claimed that we have the oldest church in San Acacio and they have the oldest parish. They had the oldest church, the physical structure, but it had to be rebuilt after a fire.
What community events in San Luis would you recommend to a visitor?
Well, you know, again I can’t stress how important religion is to our community and a majority of the events here revolve around our faith. So, we have Santa Ana, which is the celebration of our patron saint St. Anne. This happens in late July, it is always a Friday, Saturday, Sunday celebration. It’s absolutely amazing. The town transforms itself. There are masses, there are parades, vendors, booths, local artisans selling their crafts. We have pilgrimages throughout the year. Each of our mission churches has a celebration for each of their patron saints throughout the year. Around Christmas time there are the posadas, which is the re-enactment of Joseph and Mary going home-to-home asking for refuge before the birth of Christ. So nine nights prior to Christmas in each of our mission communities there is a re-enactment. A local female child plays Mary. She rides the donkey, and there is also a male child who plays Joseph. Little angels dressed up, all children of course, and the community sings Christmas songs and asks for refuge. Each evening ends at the mission church, and the members of the church have food prepared. It’s a potluck dinner, so you have warm food once you finish and you rest for the night at the church.
And are visitors welcome to attend these events?
Yes. We usually have photographers visit—all sorts come in to participate and to document it. Visitors are more than welcome to join us or observe, and that goes for all of our events, religious or secular.
What other towns in Colorado are intriguing from a culture and heritage standpoint?
All of Colorado has a strong agricultural tradition, although ours is unique because of our land division and the use of the acequia system. But you can visit centennial farms around the state and just see how close people are to the land and how much it is a part of who they are and their family and community. It is also that way with the mining communities. You know towns such as Cripple Creek and Victor and other areas like that, you can see how the communities still are attached to that part of their tradition, that part of their heritage, even though some continue to mine, others do not.
Are there any specific locations in the state that you are particularly fond of outside the San Luis Valley?
It’s hard to get me away from the San Luis Valley because it is so much a part of who I am, but I do love the mountain towns. I love going skiing as well—all of them, Steamboat, Vail, Aspen, Wolf Creek, Monarch…Keystone, Breck, A-Basin (laughs). Any of them! I visited Durango not so long ago and I rekindled my love for that area and that part of the state as well.
And how is that?
I just felt so welcome and comfortable there. And they have Mesa Verde, they have the heritage and the culture that is still alive in that area. They’ve been able to preserve their historic district there and that’s really something you see a lot in Colorado.
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