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Notes From the Trail: Snowshoeing Rocky Mountain National Park

Information on
Notes From the Trail (The Full Story)
Quick Facts About Rocky Mountain National Park
How to Dress for Snowshoeing
Choosing a Snowshoe that Fits Your Needs
Trail Etiquette
Snowshoeing Events in Colorado
Downloadable map of Rocky Mountain National Park
Additional Information
About the Writer

Notes From the Trail


Trail: Bear Lake Trailhead
Destination: Nymph Lake
Elevation Gain: 450 feet
Distance: 1 mile (round trip)
Difficulty: Easy
Getting There
: From the Beaver Meadows Visitor Center off of Hwy. 36, take Trail Ridge Road for one mile, then turn left on Bear Lake Road. The trailhead is at the very end of Bear Lake Road.

Entering the Park
February’s winter sun shone brilliantly on the snow-covered landscape. Valley walls shimmered with a reflective glow, illuminating everything. I stepped out of my truck onto the nearly empty parking lot of Rocky Mountain National Park’s Beaver Meadows Visitor Center. Ice crystals slowly melted under the pressure of my foot, and remnants of snow, not quite completely cleared from the parking lot, tracked my footprints.

[I was in search of a ranger’s advice...]


I was in search of a ranger’s advice on where I should snowshoe in the nation’s fifth-most popular national park. With 355 miles of hiking trails and a total area measuring more than 400 square miles spread out across three climate zones, I was overwhelmed by the choices the park offered. Which trail would best suit a mid-twenties, outdoorsy guy who, at the moment, was in the mood for a leisurely stroll, not an agonizing right of passage?

Meeting the Rangers
Two staffers greeted me, eagerly smiling despite the early hour. Having never snowshoed this national park, I asked for their advice. After a bit of back and forth, so they could understand my previous experience (moderate), my desired terrain (relatively flat) and the weather (admittedly a bit blustery), they suggested a trail that would fit my requirements. It was a hike from Bear Lake Trailhead to Nymph Lake, a short one-mile jaunt to an alpine lake, set in a small basin near the top of granite peaks and under the cover of evergreens.

Driving to the Trailhead
The actual hike was a few miles deeper into the heart of the park. I started up my vehicle and drove the well-plowed roads past other trailheads that wound their way into the wild. Along the way I passed equine stables, summer picnic areas and evergreens perfectly powdered with snow, as if with confectioners’ sugar.

[The realization that I’d have the trail mostly
to myself happily set upon me.
]


Beginning the Hike
I pulled into the expansive parking lot, vacant, except for a few other cars. The realization that I’d have the trail mostly to myself happily set upon me. I had been under the impression that with Rocky Mountain National Park’s three million annual visitors, I’d be engulfed in a storm of fellow hikers. As it turns out, thanks to the park’s vast area, there’s ample room for everyone to spread out and enjoy a big swath of the land, no matter the season.

I walked the short distance to the trailhead where an informational kiosk stood, posted with maps, tips and last-minute safety reminders. I made a mental note of my route, cinched up my snowshoes and began my trek.

Through my polarized sunglasses, the snow looked more like a beach composed of the whitest, softest sand I had ever seen. Wind-born ridges in the snow created dips and snaking rises across its surface. And after just a few steps, I realized that this was some of the lightest, wispiest powder I’d ever come upon. Delighted, I trekked onward.

Bear Lake Trailhead
Just a few steps along the trail and past the first tree-lined bend, Bear Lake emerged. This 9,475-foot high lake was frozen solid. Across the water’s rock-hard surface, wind played with snow, tossing it back and forth. White mountaintops peered over the scene in stoic silence, taking in the rays of a mid-morning sun.

I stood for a moment at a wooden railing, overlooking the scene. Another kiosk explained the geology of the area. Giant glaciers were once the kings of these basins and valleys, carving them out as they slowly moved and melted through seemingly impenetrable granite. Eons passed, and the glaciers faded as their valley footprints remained. Now, snowmelt is captured here, creating the lofty, sky-touching lakes like the one before me.

[...wind is always running through treetops, like fingers through hair, animating their trunks to dance and sway.]


Struck by a Thought
Then a thought struck me, as it often does when the stresses of life begin to ebb — as our lives are played out in towns and cities, in apartments and houses, these pictures of nature are here, evolving so slowly they seem never to change. We begin to realize that wind is always running through treetops, like fingers through hair, animating their trunks to dance and sway.

When hiking amid the Rocky Mountains, the first thing that impresses itself upon you is the grandeur of everything — high mountains, innumerable lakes and vast forests that touch the horizon. But after a while, these titanic images mix with the minute and delicate aspects of your surroundings, as they began to do for me.

Then I wondered how else I might have spent my day. Maybe I’d be comfortably passive in a Cineplex, watching someone’s formulaic life flash onscreen. Perhaps a premise where an actor is distraught, his counterpart is a lonely woman, they meet, fight, fall in like, then fall in love. Oh, and some kind of animal should be thrown in for the kids. How about a monkey, that hasn’t been done in a while. But instead, I was moving amidst outdoor surroundings and scenes that continuously unfolded, unscripted, before me.

A Slight Uphill Climb
I sank only a few inches in the snow, which made the hiking quick and easy. The trail began with an incline, the only one of the trip, cutting through pine trees along the way. Small beads of sweat began to gather beneath my knit cap, and it seemed as if the temperature rose a full ten degrees. Knowing that layered clothing is important when winter hiking, I unzipped my outer jacket and removed my hat to allow my body to cool.

After a heart-awakening 15-minute climb, I came across an open, snowy meadow, where animal tracks were imprinted in the snow. Elk hoofprints could be seen tracking into the trees. I looked after them as far as I could, hoping to see one of the park’s famous animal residents, but that would have to be saved for the drive back out of the park.

[...the acoustics of snow amplify sound,
like a whale’s song in the ocean.
]


Nymph Lake
I descended slightly, once again on a tree-lined trail, along the last leg of this short trip to the high-altitude Nymph Lake. Any winter hiker can tell you, the acoustics of snow amplify sound, like a whale’s song in the ocean. Noise seems to travel farther and sound crisper. As I walked, I heard with perfect clarity the squeaky crunch of snow beneath my footfalls.

A few minutes later, the path widened and Nymph Lake’s frozen, snow-swept surface could be seen. Hallett Peak, a granite, shark-fin-shaped monolith peered down on me from just past the borders of the tiny lake. While Nymph was small, as its name suggests, it was nevertheless amazing. I was happily surprised that such a quite and pristine body of water could be found so close to the trailhead and so easily accessed.

I stood along its banks for a while, gingerly testing the ice with my foot to see if it would support my weight. I didn’t have to worry; the ice was perhaps firmer than the ground on which I stood. I skirted the edges of the lake, walking along the snow-covered ice. The sound of crunching snow disappeared as the claws on the bottom of my snowshoes now scrapped along the hard surface, sounding like shoes dragging on asphalt. I eventually retraced my steps back toward the trailhead.

[... a herd of mule deer was grazing along the roadside.]


The Drive Back
The sun was now at its zenith, bathing the landscape and my spirits in its afternoon glow. On the drive out of the park, I relived memories of the hike and wondered about future outings. Then the park gave me one last surprise — a herd of mule deer was grazing along the roadside. I quickly stopped the truck. A dozen of these sinewy animals moved listlessly, nosing the ground for grasses. A few perked up their ears and looked in the direction of my humming engine. Just 10 feet away, their solid black-orbed eyes reflected my stare. They could have run, and I thought they would at any moment, but they remained, almost oblivious to my vigil. They were close enough that I could see their muscles, tight as ropes, work beneath their hide. I edged the gas peddle slightly, revving the engine to a nearly inaudibly rumble, not wanting to startle these creatures. I slowly rolled past them, and those who had taken an interest to my presence returned their attention to foraging for food.

The drive back to Denver gave me time to reflect on the entire experience. I’ve waited in line for a rollercoaster longer than it took me to drive to Rocky Mountain, and yet this was utterly different from my day-to-day experience. I now knew the feeling of seeing valleys created from glaciers, snow the consistency of down and wildlife that accepted my presence.

I waved a farewell to the ranger in the booth as I exited the park. As I left, I wondered what I’d do when I got home. Maybe throw in a romantic comedy, perhaps with a monkey, you know, for the kids. It’s been a while since I’ve seen Hugh Grant in anything. Nah, maybe I’ll just pour some coffee and try to hold on to the electric feeling snowshoeing in Rocky Mountain National Park instilled in me.

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Quick Facts About Rocky Mountain National Park


  • Total Miles of Trails: 355
  • Seasons of Use: All
  • Dates Closed: None
  • Park Entrance Fee: $20 per vehicle
  • Camping Fee: $3–$20; varies by location of site and size of group.
  • Activities Available: Hiking, Snowshoeing, Cross-country Skiing, Backcountry Skiing and Snowboarding, Horseback Riding, Running, Bicycling, Fishing, Wildlife Viewing, Wildflower Viewing, Scenic Drives, Backpacking, Camping, RVing
  • Number of Ecological Zones: Three (Alpine, Subalpine, Montane)
  • Number of Lakes: 150
  • Miles of Streams/Rivers: 450
  • Number of Active Mammal Species: 66
  • Number of Elk: Summer, 3,200; Winter, 1,000
  • Number of Bighorn Sheep: 600
  • Animals to Look for in the Winter: Elk, Mule Deer, Pikas, Ptarmigans, Snowshoe Hares, Ermine
  • Highest Elevation: 14,259 feet (Longs Peak)



Did you know: During the summer, a shuttle runs from the nearby town of Estes Park to a number of trailheads within Rocky Mountain National Park. Many hotels are located along this route, making access to the park exceptionally easy. In fact, visitors can fly into Denver International Airport (DEN), take public transportation up to Estes, then take the shuttle into the park, never having to rent a car.

Contact the national park directly for more information regarding this program.

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How to Dress for Snowshoeing:


*Scroll over the snowshoer or written list to identify articles of clothing.


*Note: Cold weather quickly saps the energy from batteries, even when not in use. Keep your camera, and other battery-operated devices, in an inside pocket, where they will be exposed to more of your body heat.

Further Preparation for Your Outing
Pick a location and specific trail, and stick to it.
Tell at least one person where you will be going and when you will return.
Stretch

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Tips for Choosing the Perfect Snowshoe


Not all of us own our own snowshoes. Luckily, the sport has a foothold in Colorado and many outdoor outfitters rent snowshoeing equipment at a very reasonable price.

See a list of outfitters

When selecting a snowshoe, there are two things to keep in mind: 1) the fit of the shoe and 2) the weight you will be putting on it. That’s not to say it’s all about how much you weigh, although that is certainly part of it. In addition to your weight, you need to consider how much your clothing will weigh and how much weight, if any, you’ll be packing in. The more weight you ask a snowshoe to carry, the longer the snowshoe should be. But be wary: you don’t want a snowshoe so big that it hinders your walking or becomes too heavy in and of itself. It’s widely recommended that you try for the smallest, lightest shoe that will fit your needs.

Snowshoe Sizing Chart

Weight (in pounds) Snowshoe length: width by length (in inches)
75–140 8x21
120–180 8x25
160–200 9x30
200 or more 10x36


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Trail Etiquette


“Inside Voices”
Snowshoers are a special breed of winter hikers. They generally crave the soft silences of nature without the drone of motorized vehicles or the clamoring of loud voices. The wind dancing across the canopy of trees, the squeaky crunch of snowshoe on snow and the warm heave of breath as they trudge uphill are sounds of accomplishment. There’s no need to scream in the woods; noise travels unencumbered to the ears of those around you. A joyful giggle or hearty laugh of delight are of course welcome on the trail at anytime.

Share the Trail
When sharing a trail with cross-country skiers, snowshoers should take note not to tread on their smooth, parallel tracks.

Environmentally Conscious
Pack out whatever you pack in; leave only footprints behind.

Respect the plants and animals. It may sound hokey, but it’s integral to a hiker’s good time, not to mention the health of the landscape. Feeding animals, approaching animals or injuring flora is extremely detrimental to nature and ruins the experience for future hikers.

Stay on the designated trail. Trekking off-trail can cause irreparable damage to the terrain.

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Snowshoeing Events in Colorado


Snowshoe Ecology Walks, Estes Park
Phone: 970-586-1223
Held throughout the winter. Call for exact dates and times.

Colorado State Park Snowshoe Romps, Various Locations
www.parks.state.co.us
Held throughout the winter. Contact the parks service for exact dates and locations.

Full Moon Ski and Snowshoe Tour, Crested Butte Nordic Center
Phone: 970-349-1707
www.cbnordic.org
Held throughout the winter. Contact the Nordic center for specific dates.

Annual Turquoise Lake Snowshoe Run, Leadville
www.leadvilleusa.com
Held every year in January. Contact the Leadville Chamber of Commerce for exact dates and times.

Annual AARP Redfeather Snowshoe Festival, Fraser
Phone: 800-933-4339
www.devilsthumbranch.com
Held at the end of January or the beginning of February. Contact Devil’s Thumb Ranch for exact dates and times.

Grand Lake Snowshoe Festival, Grand Lake
Phone: 970-627-3402
Held in mid-January. Call for exact dates and times.

Day of Infamy Snowshoe Race, Sunlight Mountain, Glenwood Springs
www.visitglenwood.com
Held in December. Call for exact dates and times.

Winter Event, Creede
Phone: 800-327-2102
chamber@creede.com
www.creede.com
Held annually in mid-February. Contact the Creede Chamber of Commerce for exact dates and times.

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Downloadable map of Rocky Mountain National Park
600 Kb (PDF)
3 Mb (PDF)

Additional Information
Rocky Mountain National Park
Snowshoe Outfitters
In the Snow Activities

Article by John Daters

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About the Writer
John Daters is the Colorado.com Web Editor and covers articles concerning all tourism industries throughout Colorado. He’s an avid outdoorsman who has found his home in the shadow of the Rocky Mountains and under the sun of the high plains.

Look for more “Notes from Colorado” stories to come. Who knows where John will turn up next.

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updated: 3/15/2007

 

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