Rock Climbing Colorado: Five Spots Not to Be Missed

1. Garden of the Gods (South Central)
   The Garden of the Gods is a local favorite, and for good reason, as it is close to Colorado Springs — the state’s second largest metropolis. This park has paved hiking trails that meander through a natural rock garden of sunset-colored red sandstone. While there are multiple routes to conquer, not all of the rocks in the park are designated for climbing. Be sure to check in with the visitor center/trading post before venturing into the park. The rangers there will give you a quick course on important climbing etiquette.
   
   Directions: From Colorado Springs, take Highway 24 west to 31st street. Turn right on 31st then left on 30th. Follow 30th to the Garden of the Gods Trading Post.
   
   Fees: Free. Climbers must first fill out a permit at the visitor center.
   
2. Rocky Mountain National Park (Front Range)
   Choose your passion; in Rocky Mountain National Park you can rock climb, ice climb or boulder. With more than 265,000 acres of space dedicated to the granite heights of the Rockies, this national park is a climber’s Mecca. If you’re a novice, you’ll find guided tours available to help ensure you’ll have all the right equipment and the routes to match your ability. If you’re an expert, there are no limits to the heights at which you’ll find yourself. If you’re up for a challenge, set up a bivouac and take a few days to climb some of the dizzyingly high faces. Bivouacs do require a park permit, so check in with the park headquarters before setting up camp.
   
   
   Directions: From Boulder, travel north along Highway 36 for 30 miles to the park’s entrance.
   
   Fees: 7-day pass, $20 per vehicle.
   
3. Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park (Southwest)
   Here, cliff walls dramatically rise to 2,722 feet with the strong-flowing Gunnison River far below. Black Canyon of the Gunnison is not a place for beginning climbers, but if you’re looking to raise your credentials among others in the sport, this is the place — climbs here are adrenaline-coursing acts of self-reliance. There are more than 140 documented routes, and yet many believe there are more that still await a first ascent. Beginning your climb from the canyon floor places you in a wilderness area, so be sure to practice environmentally conscious climbing and follow all established rules. Checking in with the ranger station first is a must, and only takes a few minutes.
   
   Directions: From the town of Montrose, travel east on Highway 50 for 8 miles until you reach the junction of Highway 347. Follow 347 north for 6 miles to the park’s south entrance.
   
   Fees: 7-day pass, $8 per vehicle. Camping, $12-18 (per day). Free permit is required in wilderness areas and can be obtained at the ranger station.
   
4. Rifle Mountain Park (Northwest)
   For some of the best limestone sport climbing in the state, Rifle Mountain Park is a must. The secret is out about this park, and has become another popular local favorite. Here, you can chalk-up with hardcore Colorado locals as they take to their favorite routes. Overhangs are the norm, and some jut out in exaggerated fashion, as if to dare climbers to challenge their heights. If crowds aren’t your thing, not to worry: a wealth of route and wall options makes it easy to find a spot to call your own. For multiple-day outings, Rifle Mountain Park offers 25 drive-in camping spots.
   
   Directions: From the town of Rifle, travel north on Highway 13 for about 1.5 miles to the turnoff of Highway 325 north. Take 325 north 6 miles to the turn off for Rifle Mountain Park.
   
   Fees: Day use pass, $5 per vehicle. Camping fee, $12 (includes day use pass).
    
5. Castlewood Canyon State Park (Denver Area)
   The west rim of Castlewood Canyon State Park is the perfect place for beginners to hone their skills and gain confidence. This state park offers climbs of 20–60 feet, some with top rope lines or crack climbing. The paved, half-mile Climbers Trail leads visitors to the best routes in the park. Since this is a day-use only park, camping isn’t allowed. But the routes are short and quick enough that you can get a few in well-before sunset. If you do want to spend a few days climbing in the area, the town of Castle Rock is only 10 miles away and offers multiple lodging options.
   
   Directions: From Castle Rock, take Highway 86 to Castlewood Road south leading to the park’s west entrance.
   
   Fees: One-day pass, $5 per vehicle.

updated: 07/28/06